Viale Repubblica 21 Tel 0785 373 719
Brothers Giuseppe and Claudio provide a warm welcome in this family-friendly pizzeria-ristorante in the new part of town. Sizzling pizzas cost mostly €6–10, and there are some tasty meat and seafood dishes on the menu too. There are tables on the terrace, if you feel like eating al fresco. Open daily except Monday 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm.
Via Sant’Ignazio 33 Tel 0785 374 129
Rustic restaurant in an alley above the Corso offering the freshest seafood and local specialities such as brasato di cinghiale (wild boar cooked in white wine). Main courses cost €12–16. It’s a bit hard to find – look for the signs in Piazza Carmine and Via del Carmine. Open daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm; closed Monday & all October–Easter.
Via Nazionale 12 Tel 0785 374 150
Cosy trattoria located just over the footbridge, offering delicious antipasti (sample the spicy octopus), fish dishes and—in the evening—pizzas. Pasta courses cost around €10–12, mains €8–14. Open daily except Monday 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm.
Via Parpaglia, 1 Tel 0785 374 129
Like Barracuda, this is a no-frills pizzeria-restaurant, with prices slightly higher, but still great value for money. If you don’t go for the pizzas (€7–12), try the spectacular tagliatelle nere (black pasta ribbons) in a seafood sauce, or a tagliata (cut-up fillet steak with parmesan and rocket). Oh, and look out for “dormouse” on the menu—we think it’s a mis-translation (it should be baby octopus), at least we hope so! Daily 12.30–3pm & 7.30–11pm.
Piazza Modoleddu Tel 0785 373 736
Well hidden on a traffic-free square off the Corso, this wine bar and restaurant has a cheerful, easy-going air and a select menu of fresh seafood. Try the risotto con crema di gamberi (with prawn sauce) or couscous with tuna, and leave room for such desserts as pannacotta al whiskey. Mains are €10–18. The staff are friendly but service can be slow. Open March–Oct daily 1–2.30pm & 8–11pm.
Via dell Conce Vecchie Tel 0785 376 140 or 348 930 8090
You can’t beat the setting here, in one of the old tannery buildings on the riverside, with tables outside with lovely views of the old bridge. It’s a bit touristy (and not for muzak-haters!), slightly over-priced, but the food is fine. Pasta courses are around €10–12, mains €14–16. Easter–Oct daily 1–2.30pm & 8–11pm.
Via Lungotemo De Gasperi 51 Tel 0785 373 482
This place on the river specializes in fresh, local and seasonal produce. Starters are around €10, mains €10–15. Open April–Oct 12.45–3pm & 7.30–11pm, closed eves & all Mon in winter.
Piazza Zanetti Tel 339 117 4216
For snacks and refreshments, avoid the pricey bars on the main Corso in favour of this wine bar and café with terrace seating. Mon–Sat 6am–2pm & 4–10pm, Sun 6am–2pm.
Piazza Carmine Tel 331 850 4785
This backstreet café-bar makes a quiet spot for a pause over a beer and/or an ample and delicious hot panino (around €5), inside or on the terrace. Daily 7am–11pm; closes midnight in summer, closed Thurs Oct–June.
Via del Carmine 104 Tel 339 573 1677
This cave-like cantina is the place to sample the best local malvasia, run by the Columbu family who produce some of the region’s finest. Snacks are provided to accompany it. It’s often closed – if so, call or ask at the Ághinas hotel. Theoretically open daily 10.30am–2pm & 5.30pm–late.