In April, Sardinia is a dazzle of yellow, the slopes carpeted with spectacular displays of gorse and broom (ginestra). There are also blue speckles of cornflowers, a smattering of red poppies, white dapples of orchids and swathes of lush green. It’s a capital time of year for walking and on Sunday we set off for a brief excursion south along the coast from Porto Alabe.
Porto Alabe has one of the area’s best beaches, an arc of soft sand, and the bay is much favoured by surfers when the waves are in. Today it was blissfully calm and almost deserted but for a trio of horses being ridden across the beach.
The track south makes for an easy stroll, with sparkling views down to the sea and a couple of tempting beaches en route. We soon arrived at Torre Columbargia, an old Spanish watchtower on a height overlooking a gorgeous rocky beach.
Just below the forsaken tower squats a second, much uglier sentinel—a World War 2-era pill-box, separated from its neighbour by some 400 years [?].
The jagged red and striated backdrop of rocks is intricate and dramatic, however the swimming here isn’t the best—the water mostly shallow with a stony bed. After absorbing the mood of this serene spot, we turned back and half an hour later were rewarded by a refreshing dip at Porto Alabe.